Saudi Arabia

My trip to Saudi Arabia in January was very interesting indeed! From wearing an abaya and hijab to having the "privilege" of being in all male company in a land of total segregation of the sexes, the visit was one of the most interesting of my life.

Riyadh is a desert city in the middle of the Saudi Arabian peninsula. It is the capital of the country and one of the most conservative cities in the country. Not only are Riyahdi women dressed in the abaya (a long, black robe or dress with long sleeves) and hijab (a head and shoulder covering), but they veil their faces in public. Foreign women are easily distinguishable because they don't veil their faces. And Riyadh has many foreign workers, both male and female, because it is growing so fast that there are not enough Saudis to fill all of the positions. And as in most wealthy countries, there are many jobs that Saudis will not do.


Saudi Arabia is a land of contrasts, from the most modern cities to the beautiful deserts.
We were the guests of King Saud University, the oldest university in the country. And let me say unequivocally that the Saudis were absolutely wonderful hosts and made us feel very welcome. One of my most memorable experiences happened on the plane before we landed in Riyadh. Ralph had a first class ticket paid by King Saud University, whereas we purchased a coach ticket for me. Of course, he had to share the first class passage with me! I went first class from Dallas to Frankfurt and he went first class from Frankfurt to Riyadh.


When we we within an hour from Riyahd, the flight attendant came to seat me in business class so I could deplane in the first class exit with Ralph. About a half hour before landing, I went into the restroom to put on the abaya and hijab. Upon landing, I went to the first class cabin to join Ralph. As he was getting his belongings he began to introduce me to the other American men that were part of the delegation. When they saw me their eyes nearly bugged out of their heads! They just knew I was an Islamic woman! It was hilarious as they tried to recover to introduce themselves! By the end of the trip when I had gotten to know them, I teased them unmercifully over their reaction that day!


My second memorable experience happened the day after our arrival. The American contingent, of which I was the only woman, was invited to the university, which is an all male campus. I assumed that I would not be able to join the men due to the strict segregation policy. However, the invitation was extended to me as well. A bus took us, along with our guide, to the campus. We were greeted by the graduate dean and vice dean, who were extremely nice men. Because it was the first day, I was trying to stick fairly close to Ralph. As the group of men walked to the elevator, Ralph stopped for some reason. Of course I stopped with him. When I looked up the group was about 50 feet ahead, so we began to walk toward them. Suddenly a security guard jumped in front of me. He said "Sister, where are you going???!!!!!!" He said it in a tone that indicated that he knew that I knew, as a Muslim woman, that I was not supposed to be in that building. I said "I'm with them," and pointed toward the group ahead. He said, "You're with..." and he said the names so fast I had no idea who "they" were! I pointed ahead again and said "I'm with them!" Ralph was mum. He didn't know what to say! I was apparently in this one alone (joke). By that time our guide saw what was happening and started to head back to us. I decided to go around the security guard and keep walking. The interesting thing about the incident was that I was actually honored by being stopped. The guard addressed me as "sister", which means I had succeeded in my goal to blend into the Saudi population through dress and appearance. He assumed that I was a person residing in Saudi Arabia, who was aware of their cultural practices.


For many years I said I would never go to the Middle East. The religious and cultural conflicts there always seemed too dangerous and daunting for me. But when my husband was invited and asked me if I wanted to go, I jumped at the chance. And I'm glad I did. After spending two days with the Saudi men, who treated me respectfully, and two days with the Saudi women, who treated me warmly, I can say that it was one of the most lovely experiences of my life.